Texada Island

A brief history

Texada Island, the largest of the Gulf Islands, is located about 50 miles north of Vancouver at its southernmost tip and about 5 miles southwest of Powell River. It is 32 miles long and 6 miles wide at its widest and is separated from the mainland by Malaspina Strait. The shortest distance between the island and the mainland is about 3 miles (Albion Point to Procahontas Bay).
The Salish name for the Island is Si'yi yen. The first nation people didn't have permanent settlements on the island, because an ancient legend says the island rose from the sea and will sink again one day.
Don Jose Navarez, a Spanish seaman sighted and charted the island in 1791, and named it after Spanish Rear Admiral Felix de Tejada (or Texada). The Spanish also named the small island just west from Texada (Lasqueti). While Spain did not have much interest in this area, Britain became a dominant force in the Pacific Northwest. At this time there was little activity along the coast, apart from fur trading, whaling, and cutting a few spars for sailing ships. Blubber Bay, the site of the BC Ferry terminal was so named because it was used by whalers for the processing of their catches.
In 1876, a whaler called Harry Trim discovered iron ore on the northwest coast at Welcome Bay. In 1886, the first iron mine was opened. Some of the ores were shipped to Japan for building their warships in the battle with the Russians.
Some time after 1877 marble was found at the south end of the island, in 1880 gold was discovered, then copper was discovered in 1890.
In 1898 the Little Billie Mine began producing gold at Sturt ( Marble) Bay, Van Anda. It had become a boom town! People came from everywhere to live, work and spend their leisure time here. It boasted the only opera house north of San Francisco, had three hotels with saloons, a hospital, several stores and businesses, and an illegal distillery flourished in Pocahontas Bay supplying liquor to the United States during prohibition.
Powell River's growth was just beginning at this time and residents from the Myrtle Point area on the mainland used to row for an hour across Malaspina Strait to Deighton's store in Van Anda for supplies or to catch the Union steamships to Vancouver.
Logging has also been prevalent in this area during the late 1800s and 1900s.
In 1910 the first of three serious fires completely destroyed the major buildings of Van Anda in only forty minutes. The optimism of the boom town led to rebuilding larger, more imposing structures - only to be destroyed by fire again in 1912. The third fire struck in 1917 leaving only Al Deighton's store which was saved by a bucket brigade. The building remains a fixture on the Van Anda waterfront today.
Mining continued and today there are still 3 working limestone quarries on the north end of the island.
Today, Texada Island is While still a thriving community today, Van Anda is much sleepier and less populated than during those "glory days". The year round population is approximately 1200 people. Many visitors spend their vacations here, returning in later years to retire in this peaceful community.
The Quarries are the major employers on the island. Other industries include logging, small sawmills, an organic fertilizer business and many of the cottage industries including gift and jewelry shops, crafts, designer clothing, pottery, artists, imported sweaters, graphics and design, silva culture and forestry supplies.

How to get there

A regular car ferry service operates between Westview in Powell River and Blubber Bay in Texada. Click here.

Accommodation

Accommodation options on Texada range from hotels, cabin rentals to bed and breakfasts. Click here.

Major Centres

Blubber Bay - the BC Ferry Terminal and also the location of the Ash Grove Cement West quarry. The area around Blubber Bay appears devastated as a result of centuries of mineral exploitation, but this is only a small part of this large island. Once past the big hill, watch for turnoffs to the old quarry which is now a favorite swimming hole (a mile long and 35' deep) for the locals. Beware that this is private property.

Van Anda

First of the 2 major population areas on the island, Van Anda is on the east side of the island and is where it all started. Small houses on small lots, narrow and winding streets. The baseball field at the entrance to the town is where the original gold mine shaft is located. While not all services may be available on the island, most major amenities such as foodstuffs, hardware & gas can be purchased here. Powell River Credit Union also has a branch here.

Gillies Bay

On the west side of the Island, is a popular spot for retirees. There is a food and liquor store here, a gallery featuring local art, and a farmers' market held on Sundays in summer on the Gillies Bay Ball Field. The island's unique Flower Rock jewellery can be found in Gillies Bay. A medical clinic as well as a detachment of the RCMP is located here. From June through October the Gilles Bay Ball Field hosts a farmers market every Sunday. It features bake sales, organic produce and gift items. Shelter point, south of Gillies Bay, still displays the remains of a once thriving logging area. Shelter Point Regional Park is a very popular campsite in the summer. The airport north of Gillies Bay is a stopover between Powell River and Vancouver Island.

Landmarks

Quarries

There are three working limestone quarries:

Ash Grove Cement West Inc. at Blubber Bay next to the ferry terminal. 2nd largest in Canada. The Company sells aggregates, agricultural limestone and also cement rock to their cement plant in Seattle, Washington, chemical grade limestone to their Rivergate lime plant in Portland, Oregon as well as aggregates and chemical grade limestone in BC.
Lafarge Corporation Texada Quarrying Ltd. north of Gillies Bay. 3rd largest in Canada. Supply to Seattle and Richmond, BC. Deep sea dock.
Imperial Limestone Ltd. near Van Anda, is another US Company based in Seattle. It is the terrace-like landscape as seen from Powell River.

Natural Gas Transmission pipeline
BC Gas's 615 kilometres long high-pressure transmission pipeline begins in Coquitlam, runs north to Squamish and along the north shore of Howe Sound to Sechelt where it travels under the Strait of Georgia to Anderson Bay, Texada Island. At Kiddie Point, Texada's northern tip, the pipeline re-enters the ocean and branches off to Powell River and Vancouver Island where it comes ashore in the Courtenay-Comox area. It then heads north to Campbell River and south to Victoria. BC Gas currently provides natural gas to 70,000 homes and businesses and seven pulp mills on Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast.

BC Hydro Transmission line

Hydro East at Long Beach, Hydro West at half way between Shingle Beach and Davies Bay.

Radio Towers

Mt. Pocahontas (1,745 ft)

Recreation

The area boasts many lakes and hiking trails and most are accessible by car or 4 wheel drive. There are many beaches accessible by land or water and beachfronts vary from large rocks to fine sand. There are numerous dirt roads and trails to explore by foot or mountain bike. Although much of the old logging roads have been reclaimed by nature you will still see signs of this history everywhere.

Camping

Shelter Point Regional Park and Campsite (Regional) (604)486-7228, 40 acre oceanside campground on the southwest coast of Texada Island, 47 sites with flush toilets, showers, covered picnic areas. 12 miles from Blubber Bay ferry terminal. This park receives 40-50,000 people every year.
Terrace Park Campground. This campsite has just been sold to a lime rock company and won't be accommodating any campers.

Forestry Campsite (604)485-0700:

Bob's lake - rustic, 5 sites, used mainly by hunters and 4WD enthusiasts; a rare species of orchid can be found in the area; excellent mountain biking area.
Shingle Beach - a small, semi-open site with 2WD access; good salmon fishing, user maintained; site used by local scuba divers. Caution: ocean can get rough very quickly.
A small rustic campsite is being established by volunteers at Anderson Bay, which in the future will be an access to the South Texada Island Provincial Park.

Hiking

Hiking to the top of Mount Pocahontas, the third tallest peak on the island at 1,745 feet affords spectacular 360?views of the Coast Mountain range on the mainland, Vancouver Island to the west and Georgia Strait.
Hike to the top of Mt. Shepard, the highest point on the island. Trail head at the gravel road to Anderson Bay north of old airstrip.
A 2-mile (3-km) loop trail begins south of the entrance to the Shelter Point Regional Park's newly expanded campsite area takes visitors through an old growth forest. Near the south end of the trail stands the gnarliest Douglas fir of them all, a full 7 feet in diameter at the butt. At the south end of the nature trail and you may also find an ancient V-shaped rock fishing weir, fashioned by Indians of the Sliammon Nation.
Pick up a map at the general store and ask for the precise direction to hiking trails. Do not wander into unfamiliar territories. There are plantations all over the island during the growing season. There have not been any problem between growers and outdoor recreationists in the past. Just walk by and do not disturb the crop.
A lot of the properties on Texada Island are privately owned. Look for signs and avoid trespassing.

Mountain Biking

TEXADA ISLAND LOOP 34 miles loop (+10 miles of road from ferry terminal to Esso Station in Van Anda), intermediate to advanced, full day. Side trips to Bob's Lake and Shingle Beach. Direction: Starts at Esso Station, north-east into Van Anda. 10 miles on High Road (past Pocahontas Bay and School Road intersections), the road becomes Bell road. 2.5 miles to BC Hydro Reactor intersection, turn right and 3 miles further to another intersection, turn right to the Hydro Substation (left will take you to Bob's Lake). Keep right around the fence. Follow the power line access for 3 miles (steep and dangerous). At the bottom of the hill keep to the mainroad (left will take you to Shingle Beach), 13 miles on Davies Bay Road through Gillies Bay and back to Esso Station.

Mountain Bikes can be rented at Gillies Bay, including cruisers, hardtails and full suspension mountain bikes.

Wildlifes

Bird watchers flock to Gilles Bay to spot the many different kinds of finches perching along the fence of the airport. Migrating Brant geese stop over in Gilles Bay in March and April each year on their long way back to northern Alaska and the Yukon. Osprey, Bald Eagles, Great Blue Heron and Kingfisher are common. Rufous Hummingbirds abound from April to August.
A specie of miniature black-tailed (Mule) deer roam freely over the island in the absence of cougar or bear. Hunted by locals in the fall.
Seals, sealions roam in the water along the shore, especially along the south shores of the island. Caution: seals in this water have been known to confront people.
Benthic three-spined Texada Island stickleback , and Limnetic ( fed in the open water, or limnetic zone, of the lake) Texada Island stickleback, from Paxton Lake were designated as endangered by the Committee on the Status of Endangered Wildlife in Canada (COSEWIC).
There are tidal pools at the south end of Lime Kiln Bay (close to Blubber Bay) where all kinds of sealife inhabit. Access from the highway before the top of the big hill and through private property.

Rock Hounding

Rock hunters will find all sorts of treasures on the island, from fossilized sea creatures to the "flower rock" on some of the beaches.

Sailing

Boat Moorage is available at a small marina in Marble bay at Van Anda but space is limited. Many boaters choose anchorage in the many bays around the island. They aren't particularly sheltered, so weather conditions should be monitored. Blubber Bay, Marble Bay (watch for sunken logging cables), Anderson Bay are a few examples.
Prevailing winds: Winds can be strong (and waves high) if from the southeast or northwest.
Warnings: Subject to high winds and waves at times. Mild currents flooding north, ebbing south.

Kayaking

Texada Island Circum-navigation - 70 miles-plus trip. It is a long paddle. Some interesting spots but some of the coastline is not that interesting. Some fresh water streams along the way. Watch for wind, current and tide.
Use Jedediah Island as a base camp and take day trips to Lasqueti Island and the surrounding areas. Launch from either Shelter Point, Davies Bay, Shingle Beach or Anderson Bay on the other side of the island. Cook Bay is the closest launch point to Jedediah but the road access is on private property, please do not trespass. It is about 4 miles from Shelter Point to Jedediah. Camp at Home Bay on the island. Please remember that this area is NOT wilderness. Most of the coast of Lasqueti and surrounding islands are private and their owners do not welcome trespassers. There are lots of people living around here and there aren't any public places to camp, please respect people's privacy. Of course, if you are in trouble, don't hesitate to stop and ask for help as most people will be helpful (but not so on Bull Island, so stay away from there). Note: Bull Island has recently been sold for $350,000, but I don't know if the new owners are any friendlier. And please don't have fires as most of the islands have lots of moss on them and if a fire starts it might burn for days before anybody sees it. There are also a few aquaculture sites around, so if you are picking shellfish look for signs. If you ask the owners, most likely they would let you have something. There are oysters and clams on Jedediah and good cod fishing off the end of the rocks off Home Bay and good salmon fishing along the southern end of Texada. Fresh water spring at Squitty Bay on Lasqueti Island. Historic site at Spanish Cove, Lasqueti Island.
About Jedediah Island - 243 acres of old-growth forest and oyster-infested beaches. It is the largest and most diverse island of a chain of over thirty islands and rocky islets located north and west of Lasqueti Island. The interior of Jedediah is comprised of forest ecosystems where a variety of mature tree species intermingled with rocky outcrops. In several areas evidence of previous owner (Palmer family) is evident. Thanks to the The Dan Culver Follow Your Dream Foundation, the Friends of Jedediah, the Marine Parks Forever Society, the Nature Trust of British Columbia and many other individuals and groups the island became a Provincial Park in 1995. Water access only. Sabine Channel is the main traffic lane for the inside passage to Prince Rupert and Alaska. It is quite a sight to watch the huge cruise ships passing through in the evenings. Watch for the tides and wind. View of Mt. Baker looking south-east.

Diving

Anderson Bay & Upwood Point - These two spots at the south end of Texada Island are quiet and pristine, gorgeous places even above water.
Shingle Beach - shore dive.
Tucker Bay and Bull Passage at Lasqueti Island.

Fresh Water Fishing

Emily Lake, Priest Lake, First Lake, Second Lake, Third Lake and Angel Lake.

Caving

Spanish Cove on Lasqueti Island, located on private land.
Emily Lake/Priest Lake on Texada Island.
There are at least 8 known caves on Texada, some in excess of 300 meters deep, some have not been fully explored, one is a classic sink hole which extends nearly 300 meters down and in, one is accessed via a waterfall. As with any cave system unrestricted public access can damaged delicate formations, some of this has already occurred, management strategy is required before public access is encouraged. Contact the webmaster for contacts if any serious cavers are interested.

Events

Texada's Sandcastle Competition at Shelter Point Park in July. Other festivities on Sandcastle Weekend include live entertainment, slow-pitch ball games, Games and races, a beer garden, a barbecue, a pigroast, a dance, and much more.

Virtual Tours

Maps of Texada Island

North Texada Island (pdf file - 1879K)
Central Texada Island (pdf file - 2958K)
South Texada Island (pdf file - 2024K)

Trivia

Actress sisters Meg Tilley and Jennifer Tilley spent a few years growing up on Texada Island before moving to Victoria. The younger sister (Meg or Jen?) was born there in '61.
Texada Gold, a world famous weed.
Canada Post Building in Vancouver is lined with Texada marble.
The municipality of Richmond is probably paved with concrete mixed with aggregates from Texada Island.